Cool Power FAQ

Cool Power FAQ Index

Our most frequently asked questions, and our most frequent answers.

 

1) Can I order directly from you?

2) What is the shelf life of the fuel?

3) Is 17% oil enough?

4) Should I use after-run oil?

5) Should I pour my unused fuel from my tank back into the fuel jug?

6) Can I use Cool Power in ABC, ABN, non-ringed motors?

7) What should I use for break-in?

8) Is there a differances in the CP 15% and the CP 15% heli?

9) Who sells Cool Power in my area?

10) I need to buy Model Fuel in Europe,who is the distributer?

 

   

Can I order from you directly?

We really appreciate your interest in ordering fuel directly from us, but we encourage you to visit your local hobby dealer to purchase our fuels. If your local dealer doesn't have Cool Power, Omega or Sidewinder in stock, they can easily order it for you through us or Horizon or Great planes in the U.S., BBT in Europe and Canadian Hobbycraft in Canada.

Your local hobby shop is a source of information and assistance as well as a good place to find people that share your interests. Buy from your local hobby shop so they will be there when you need them!!

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What is the shelf life of the fuel?

Unopened and stored in ideal conditions (between 60-80 degrees) it will remain usable for several (5-7) years. As the fuel begins to degrade it will increasingly lack the punch of new fuel. Really the only way to tell if the fuel is good is to run it. If it idles well and the transition is good on the ground, use it. You might notice a little less "bark" in a fuel that has been stored for several years but it won't hurt the engine.

Opened would vary according to how much moisture the fuel has sponged out of the air. A quick way to ruin a gallon of fuel is to drain your tank at the end of your flying day back into the fuel jug. What is happening is that your fuel is picking up moisture from the pressurized tank. The carburetor is sucking in humid air and after combustion the moisture laden air is entering into your tank via the tube from your muffler. When you return the fuel from your tank to your fuel jug you are contaminating the rest of the fuel in the jug.

My recommendation is to run your tank dry at the end of the day, but whether you do that or not don't return the fuel from your tank to your fuel jug.

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Is 17% oil enough?

Short answer: Yes!

Long Answer: There are 2 major reasons for that emphatic yes.

1, Many of the lubricant recommendation haven’t been changed in 35 years since I started flying. They are still based on fuels that use only castor oil as a lubricant. Modern synthetics are a vast improvement over AA Castor so you need much less. All engine manufacturers exaggerate the amount of needed lubrication, because they have to take into consideration a complete novice tuning the engine and not knowing what bargain basement brand of fuel that you may buy so they "require" more lubricant. Actually there has been a shift at some of the manufacturers lately. They are getting negative feedback from their customers telling them their engines don't run well on the high amounts of lubrication they are suggesting.

2, our fuels contain a very high viscosity lubricant (meaning that it protects your engine like 19%-20% regular viscosity lube). It's similar to 100 to 1 outboard motor lube and 30 to 1 lube, both give you adequate protection but using the higher viscosity lube puts more methanol and nitro in the chamber giving you better transition and top end.

To dispel any misgivings you may have about the lubricant content of our fuel it is used by more modelers around the world than any other brand. World and National champions such as

World and National Champions such as, Wolfgang Matt, Roland Matt, Quique Somenzini, Michael Siddall, Kirk Gray, Chip Hyde, Glenn Watson, Ken Blackwell, Troy Newman, Raikio Potter, Cliff Hiatt, Jason Krause, Todd Bennett, Len Sabato, Dwight Shilling, Nob Nakumura, Scott Grey, Wayne Mann, Chip Hyde, and Chen Zarefati …they use the same off the shelf fuel you buy at your local hobby shop. We do not pay anyone to use Cool Power or Omega, so there only reason for choosing it is because it works as promised. Are they having lubrication problems, no quite the contrary? If these fellas aren’t having problems with the extreme conditions of competition flying I’m fairly confident you won’t either.

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Should I use after-run oil?

No!

Most of our flyers don't use any after-run. Petroleum based "after-run" oils do not mix with methanol-based fuels. So,we definitely don’t recommend any petroleum based lubes. Our built-in after-run oil is one of the most universally recognized features of our fuels. As an example of this check out these 2 e-mails we recieved,

This first one is from Troy Davis,
“It has been at least three years since I've flown my model airplane due to the lack of free time so the other day I'm standing in my garage and finally decided to pull it down off the ceiling and see what it was going to take to get it going again… I must admit when I put it away three years ago I did not put after run oil in the engine. The plane went straight from the field, the last time I flew it, to the ceiling. Now the question came to me, do I waste my time with this engine or just get a new one? So I decided to crack it open and check out just how bad it looked inside… So now after I've torn the engine all apart and put it back together I sit here writing this because I just could not believe what I discovered. There was not one bit of corrosion inside that engine. As a matter of fact it looked like it did the last time I pulled it apart when I was religiously flying it every weekend. There was no way this was what I was seeing. How could it hold up that long and not be at least somewhat corroded? Then it came to me as I inspected around in the engine I saw this green oil film all over the inside of the casing. Sure enough the only thing it could be was that all I ever ran in that engine was Cool Power synthetic fuels... Thank you tons for looking after my equipment for three years while I was unable to tend to it myself.”

And this one from Alan Wellentin,
“I've got a story that demonstrates extreme rust protection. I parked one of my helicopters on the bottom of a pond it stayed the night underwater. The next day when I fished it out, I took out the glow plug, pumped all the water out of the engine, refueled with fresh 30% cool power and started the engine. I let it idle for a tank of fuel then it sat for a month until I got all the parts to rebuild the heli. The engine has run flawlessly. I recently took it apart and the insides still look new even after sitting underwater for 16 hours.”
Thanks for a great product, Alan Wellentin

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Should I pour the unused fuel from my tank back into the fuel jug?

No!

As mentioned in the question above about shelf life:

A quick way to ruin a gallon of fuel is to drain your tank at the end of your flying day back into the fuel jug. What is happening is that your fuel is picking up moisture from the pressurized tank. The carburetor is sucking in humid air and after combustion the moisture laden air is entering into your tank via the tube from your muffler. When you return the fuel from your tank to your fuel jug you are contaminating the rest of the fuel in the jug.

My recommendation is to run your tank dry at the end of the day, but whether you do that or not don't return the fuel from your tank to your fuel jug.


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Should I pour the unused fuel from my tank back into the fuel jug?

No!

As mentioned in the question above about shelf life:

A quick way to ruin a gallon of fuel is to drain your tank at the end of your flying day back into the fuel jug. What is happening is that your fuel is picking up moisture from the pressurized tank. The carburetor is sucking in humid air and after combustion the moisture laden air is entering into your tank via the tube from your muffler. When you return the fuel from your tank to your fuel jug you are contaminating the rest of the fuel in the jug.

My recommendation is to run your tank dry at the end of the day, but whether you do that or not don't return the fuel from your tank to your fuel jug.


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Can I use Cool Power in ABC, ABN, non-ringed motors?

Yes!

Although we recommend Omega (our Castor/Synthetic Blend) for non-ringed engines, the recommendation of Cool Power for ringed engines only, is mainly because castor does offer a little more protection than straight synthetic (especially for less experienced tuners, and in lean run situations)...
That being said we have many flyers that use Cool Power in everything and have no problems or excessive wear. As ilustrated in the following e-mail from David Scott instructor and owner of the 1ST U.S. R/C FLIGHT SCHOOL: "I average nearly 400 hours per engine. I directly attribute this engine life and hassle-free operation to using Cool Power with its wear and rust protectors. The only maintenance our engines require is an occasional changing of the Glo-plug. If I can consistently average an operating life of nearly 400 hours on each engine in the abusive conditions of a full-time Flight School, the individual flyer is guaranteed to have almost unlimited engine life expectancy and reliability when running Cool Power."

This is a note from Ken Ausili: "I was wondering why you say Cool Power is for ringed engines, I have run Cool Power in all my ABC ABN engines and never had one problem. After gallons of fuel used, the inside of my engines still look like new. Thanks for making a great product."

So you can see that obviously Cool Power can be used in most applications.

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What should I use for break-in?

Our recommendation is to use whatever fuel you intend to use after break-in just run it rich.
You can add oil if you'd like but it's not necessary. If you do add oil to increase the lubricant ratio for every1.28 oz. you add you will increase the lubricant content by approximatly 1%.

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Is there a differances in the CP 15% and the CP 15% heli?

No there is no difference. At one time there was a difference between the 15% aero fuel and the 15% heli. Originally the heli fuel contained an anti-foam additive and there was a slight difference in the lubricant package. Now all of our fuels contain anti-foam and working with Cliff Hiatt (former World Champion) we discovered that the aero lubricant package worked better in the Helis so now both formulations are the same.

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Who sells Cool Power in my area?

We are working on our Dealers Page now, our problem is we mainly sell through distributors and we're not sure of the stores who don't buy from us direct.

If you have a hobby store that sells Morgan Fuels or know of a store please contact us and we will appreciate your letting us know!

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I need to buy Model Fuel in Europe,who is the distributer?

Big Boys Toys Handelsagentur GmbH
Hauptstrasse 4
83607 Holzkirchen-Föching
Tel.: +49 (0)8024 477570
Fax : +49 (0)8024 478123
www.coolpower.de www.bbtgmbh.de

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